"The spectacle of nature is always beautiful" are the words of Aristotle, a Greek philosopher of the 4th century aCn, and perfectly illustrate how I felt when discovering Oda (小田) and Ishidatami (石畳).
Located some twenty minutes east of downtown Uchiko (内子町), the small hamlet of Oda was the starting point for a magnificent two-part show, punctuated by various acts attended by Ayaka Sakamoto, guide and friend, Jean Nicolas and myself.
On arrival, the cool morning air was softened by the warmth of the sun, while the surrounding countryside, bathed in light, gave us the opportunity to take full advantage of its beauty. The mountains are omnipresent, and the calm is broken only by the sound of the Oda River, which rises in this region.
We were then joined by Miyoshi Michiko, who works for the Uchiko Tourist Office. She took us on a tour of the surrounding area, providing us with a wealth of information about the region. For example, due to the abundance of forests, forestry has developed through the exploitation of cypress wood, Hinoki (檜) and cedar, Sugi (杉). She then took us on a tour of the main street, drawing our attention to several remarkable buildings constructed between the Meiji (1868-1912) and Taishô (1912-1926) eras.
This street is home to the former Ninomiya residence. Built in 1942 to house the eponymous sawmill, the building was designated a Tangible Cultural Asset in 2021. Both an inn and an event center, it was in this absolutely charming setting that we took part in a natural chestnut bug dyeing experience.
Known as Igazome (毬染め), this process has existed since the Heian period and is, in many ways, a beautiful cultural heritage. We took our places in the garden at the back of the building, donned aprons and our hosts, Yachiyo-san and Emiko-san, explained the workshop to us.
The chestnuts are harvested in autumn and left to rest overnight before being used for dyeing. To ensure that the experiment doesn't take too long, the chestnuts are first boiled five times with alum oil to enable the dye to set quickly.
Once we'd decided on the decorative motif, we took our square of cotton gauze fabric, and secured pieces of wood to protect the motif from the dye bath. We then soaked our creation in the dye, heated to 80°C for several minutes. This step determines the tone of the final color. The longer the fabric is immersed, the darker the color, and vice versa.
Afterwards, we immersed our creation in clear water heated to the same temperature to put the finishing touches to the process.
But this technique is not limited to chestnuts. Other plants and trees are also used, such as indigo and cherry tree. Each plant can be used to obtain a specific hue.
It was then time to chat with our hosts, learn more about their history but also share our own, all while savoring a delicious green tea accompanied by a sweet local specialty, Yuzuko (ゆずっ子). Made from white bean paste, it's topped with a little Yuzu marmalade. This tangy sweetness was very refreshing.
We immortalized this first act with a beautiful photo before resuming our journey...
Then it was time for a lunch break. We stopped off at the Kinshôdô store (琴松堂), where I bought a box of Yuzuko as a souvenir. This store also offers visitors the chance to buy other handcrafted local specialties, so don't hesitate to pause at this spot. What's more, it boasts a sublime Japanese garden, which we were able to visit.
Afterwards, we strolled through the streets of Oda, enjoying the natural spectacle.
And we arrived at the Kajikatei restaurant (かじか亭) located next to the Oda rest area to sample the local specialty, Tarai Udon (小田名物). This dish has been around since ancient times and was served for celebrations, receptions and family meals. Udon noodles were poured into a kind of bowl before being eaten hot. The story goes that one day, during the Edo period, the lord of Ôzu stopped off in Oda and asked to be served a meal. The locals prepared Tarai Udon, which he enjoyed immensely! Thus, Tarai Udon made the reputation of the hamlet and became a local specialty that continues to this day.
It was served with chives and yuzu as condiments. The sweet soup used to soak the noodles is made from soybeans, shiitake mushrooms and small dried fish. I accompanied it all with an Inarizushi (いなり寿司), a fried tofu wrapper, vinegared, sweetened and filled with rice. It was an absolutely delicious culinary experience !
Invigorated by the meal, Miyoshi Michiko entrusted us to the care of Hiroyuki Matsushita, a member of Uchiko City's Community Development Cooperation in charge of Oda.
He took us on a tour of the area's natural riches, and we began our journey at the Hirose Shrine (廣瀬神社).
Passing the Torii marking the entrance to the shrine, founded in 926, time seems to stand still... The calm of the place resonates with the various buildings marked by the passage of time.
Along the enclosure, a Yew, Ichii (櫟) and two Zelkova, Keyaki (ケヤキ) dominate the visitor with their impressive size. These remarkable trees, over a thousand years old, are classified as natural monuments of the prefecture and are cared for by local residents. The importance of these trees goes hand in hand with the sanctuary itself, which continues to be the scene of annual events and a framework for the preservation of local traditions.
We left the sanctuary behind and headed for the mountains. The car journey took us along winding, sometimes very narrow roads... But every now and then, as we rounded a bend in the road, the forest gave us a glimpse of the expanse of the landscape as it slowly unfolded before our eyes.
We then stopped off at the fish farm run by Shinpei-san, aka Peipei. Nestled in the heart of the mountains, his workshop was a first visit of its kind, and it was with great pleasure that I discovered the place. After a very warm welcome, Peipei took us on a tour of his work.
In the various basins fed by the river's water, Peipei raises salmon trout, Amago (アマゴ) and rainbow trout, Nijimasu (虹鱒). The latter explained to us that the presence of rainbow trout is a good indicator of the quality of the water, reputed to be very pure in Oda.
The fish are divided into pools according to age. In the first pond, the fish are two years old, while in the second, they are 5 years old. In the covered tank, the fish are only a few months old, and it's also in this area, sheltered from the light, that the eggs are cultivated.
The fish is destined for local restaurants and festivals, where it is served grilled. In fact, it wasn't long before we had the chance to try our hand at it.
It was our first encounter of this kind, but a very interesting one nonetheless! Sharing with the locals, learning about their history and their professions made the trip worthwhile. Peipei then served us a glass of river water and we posed for a second time. What we didn't know yet was that we'd be running into Peipei a second time...
We then headed for the Odamiyama Gorge where we met up with Peipei... Can't you explain it?! Neither can I! In any case, Peipei joined us all the way along the river.
Nature was decked out in its finest finery, and I clearly remember the feeling of well-being that came over me as I looked around. An unspoilt nature whose beauty is self-sufficient...
Hiroyuki-san explained that the change in leaf color in autumn gives rise to a magnificent myriad of colors, including the famous Momiji scarlet (紅葉). In fact, don't hesitate to watch the video below, produced by the Uchiko Tourist Office, of the Odamiyama Valley in autumn - a breathtaking sight !
Our guide drew our attention to the stones to be found in the riverbed. Some are green, yellow, white, blue and red. The latter are also found in Kochi, where they are carted from Oda, a testament to the power of the river's current.
We continued our stroll along the river, and I felt a certain apprehension as we crossed the bridge over the river... I think I wasn't the only one...
We also stopped off at a camping area and a number of other points of interest, giving us a new perspective on the spectacle unfolding before us.
In fact, although the depth of the river may seem rather shallow, it can reach 8 m in places, making it ideal for swimming in summer.
Our adventure in the mountain is drawing to a close, but at the suspension bridge you can see above, Hiroyuki-san told us an interesting story from Japanese folklore. Indeed, in the photo below, can you see the cavity in the rock ?
This is in fact the lair of a dragon. Legend has it that if you wake up the dragon by throwing stones, it will wake up and the weather will turn cloudy and rainy. I must confess, we didn't give it a try.
As the sun began its slow descent, we once again immortalized this visit with a beautiful souvenir, bringing another act of this adventure to a close.
We then set off again for the village of Ishidatami (石畳), where we spent the night. We stopped at the traditional Ishidatami no Yado inn (石畳の宿), where we enjoyed an authentic experience... You can read more about this wonderful adventure in my next article dedicated to this other charming hamlet.
And so ends the first part of this show, made up of encounters, discoveries and experiences, with nature and all it has to offer as the main stage. I'd like to thank Ayaka Sakamoto for her invaluable help, her impeccable guidance, her many explanations and her ever-present good humor! My warmest thanks also go to Michiko Miyoshi of the Uchiko Tourist Office, who made these two days possible for me. And I certainly can't forget to thank all the people who crossed our path during these two days: Yachiyo-san, Emiko-san, Hiroyuki-san and Peipei-san.
Each and every one of them made this day a precious moment!
If you'd like to discover Oda, please see the links below for more information.
Ayaka Sakamoto, French-speaking guide for the Uchiko Tourist Office:Instagram :
- Instagram: Ayaka/Tourisme Designer & Organizer, Guide🇯🇵🇫🇷🇬🇧 (@unetokyoite) | Instagram
- Facebook : Une Tokyoïte | Facebook
- Website: Une Tokyoite – Your local guide & unforgettable experiences in Tokyo/Shikoku-Setouchi/Online
- YouTube : Une Tokyoite - YouTube
Uchiko Tourism Office:
- Instagram: Uchiko Tourism Association (@visit_uchikojapan) • Photos et vidéos Instagram
内子町観光協会【公式】 (@visit_uchiko) • Photos et vidéos Instagram
- Facebook: Visit Uchiko Japan | Facebook
一般社団法人内子町観光協会 | Kita-gun Ehime | Facebook
- Website : UCHIKOGENIC – Uchiko Town Tourism Official Website
- Chestnut bug dyeing experiment and Tarai Udon: 【ODA】Chestnut burr dye experience and Tarai Udon lunch – UCHIKOGENIC
- YouTube : 内子町観光協会_Uchiko Tourism Association - YouTube
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