As the sun began its inexorable descent and with it the end of our adventure in Oda, a new one loomed in Ishidatami. And so, the second part of this spectacle offered by nature began with our arrival at the traditional Ishidatami no Yado inn (石畳の宿).
On arrival, we were greeted by Keiko-san, who showed us around. Ayaka-san left us in her care, informing us that we were to be the only occupants of the establishment, and giving us time to enjoy the atmosphere while she prepared our meal.
The old-fashioned fireplace gives the place a unique character. It was here that we could see the fish we were about to be served.
When it was time for dinner, we were treated to a veritable festival of colors and flavors! Our host provided us with various explanations on the local products that we were about to savor with great pleasure! The fish is caught in the Fukumoto River, which runs alongside the road, while the various vegetables are grown by the locals.
The same goes for the tempura made from plants and flowers found in the mountains, which was a delicious discovery.
As our evening drew to a close, Keiko-san's good humor, smile and laughter put the finishing touches to an incredible day and evening !
When we woke up, the calmness of the place gave me a pleasant sensation, as if it were waking up as we did, revealing details that had escaped me the day before.
Our host prepared breakfast, which was just as impressive and succulent as the previous day's meal.
The hostess then joined us to share the history of the house. She placed a photo album on the table and showed us the conversion work carried out on this former farmhouse. The work was completed in August 1994, which means that this year it will be 30 years old! A birthday to celebrate !
Then it was time to say our goodbyes and continue our exploration of the surrounding area until we visited another workshop. Would you like a clue ? Here it is !
Ayaka Sakamoto met us at the inn, bringing this absolutely fantastic first act to a close. She then took us on a tour of the village and its history.
The very name of this village is interesting and refers to the flat rocks, Ishi, found in the Fukumoto riverbed and said to resemble Japanese tatami mats.
The start of the second act began with the ancient Shidarezakura weeping cherry tree (しだれ桜). Nearly 350 years old, we were unfortunately unable to witness the flowering of these trees, so representative of spring in Japan. In fact, lower-than-normal temperatures delayed flowering. However, the buds were patiently preparing to open, a promise for the days to come.
We then headed for the Yuge-Jinja shrine (弓削神社). Isolated by a lake, it can be reached by crossing the Taikobashi covered bridge. The 22-metre-long roof is made of bamboo and cedar bark shingles. There are several covered bridges in the region, carefully preserved by the locals, offering a picturesque setting punctuated by the passing of the seasons.
Let's return to the sanctuary. It was built during the Muromachi period (1336-1573). Dedicated to the goddess Amaterasu Ôkami, people go here to pray for a good harvest, good fortune, love and marital happiness. As such, it holds great importance in Ishidatami.
Around the shrine, we could see imposing oak trees, Shii no Ki (椎の木). The calm of this forest echoed the presence of the shrine below.
Further afield, we also saw crops of Shiitake (シイタケ), the edible mushroom also known as oak woolly, which accompanies many dishes.
We left the shrine behind and headed for Yamada-san's workshop, and if you've been following along so far, you already know what I'm going to talk about!
We're going to talk about the artisanal manufacture of charcoal, but not just any kind of charcoal. In fact, it's a fuel used primarily for the tea ceremony.
Based on the use of oak wood, the finished product is also known as chrysanthemum charcoal, because the fissures on its surface are reminiscent of this delicate flower.
The manufacturing process requires raw materials and time. Previously, I showed you a photo of Shiitake cultivation. To cultivate this mushroom, growers cut down trees, which are then used to support the mushroom's development. Yamada-san uses the same wood and selects the pieces according to various criteria, such as size or defects that would prevent the production of quality charcoal.
He then cuts the logs into one-meter sections, which are then placed in the kiln. This is followed by a one-week combustion phase and a cooling phase lasting the same length of time. It therefore takes two weeks to obtain quality coal that meets various criteria.
In fact, at the end of the process, it is characterized by a very light odor, less strong than that of industrially produced fuel. Moreover, during combustion, crackling is limited, reducing the risk of damage to kimono and the delicacy of their fabrics. Last but not least, it emits almost no smoke, as there are no non-carbonized parts in the manufacturing process.
Some of you may react to his work and its ecological impact. However, Yamada-san explained that he works in balance with nature. Indeed, the shoots that grow into new trees capture a lot of carbon dioxide, which offsets that emitted when he produces coal.
This last act is soon coming to an end, but after this last visit, which was extremely interesting for the crafts enthusiast in me, we headed off to Seiryu-en Park to enjoy a moment of relaxation over a barbecue fuelled by Yamada-san's charcoal. While the charcoal-burner prepared the barbecue, we took the opportunity to stroll around the grounds.
Until the 1950s, there were as many as 30 mills in the region. Today, three of them remain, and are still used occasionally to make flour. Along with covered bridges, mills are another feature of the rural landscape that local residents strive to preserve.
And then it was time to celebrate! We returned to the charcoal kiln, toasted some local bread, heated some water and enjoyed a delicious cup of coffee. We accompanied our piece of bread with a delicious local jam too. A moment of great simplicity, but above all marked by conviviality and human warmth.
And so the show came to an end, a cup of coffee in one hand, a piece of bread in the other, smiles and the gentle warmth of charcoal... I can't thank Ayaka Sakamoto enough who, as our French-speaking guide, broke the language barrier and enabled us to experience what embodies the very essence of this article: authenticity. Once again, my warmest thanks to the Uchiko Tourist Office for these two days spent in Oda and Ishidatami. And I certainly don't forget to thank those who left their mark on the second day: Keiko-san and Yamada-san.
Oda and Ishidatami were full of precious moments that I was able to experience thanks to all these people !
If you're looking for adventure, go to Ishidatami and don't hesitate to consult the links below for more information.
Ayaka Sakamoto, French-speaking guide for the Uchiko Tourism Office:
- Instagram: Ayaka/Tourisme Designer & Organizer, Guide🇯🇵🇫🇷🇬🇧 (@unetokyoite) | Instagram
- Facebook : Une Tokyoïte | Facebook
- Website: Une Tokyoite – Your local guide & unforgettable experiences in Tokyo/Shikoku-Setouchi/Online
- YouTube : Une Tokyoite - YouTube
Uchiko Tourism Office:
- Instagram: Uchiko Tourism Association (@visit_uchikojapan) • Photos et vidéos Instagram
内子町観光協会【公式】 (@visit_uchiko) • Photos et vidéos Instagram
- Facebook: Visit Uchiko Japan | Facebook
一般社団法人内子町観光協会 | Kita-gun Ehime | Facebook
- Website : UCHIKOGENIC – Uchiko Town Tourism Official Website
- Yuge Shrine, visit to the charcoal workshop and lunch at Seiryu-en Park: 【ISHIDATAMI】Charcoal kiln and Yuge shrine Tour – UCHIKOGENIC
- YouTube : 内子町観光協会_Uchiko Tourism Association - YouTube